• Site Assessment • Site Preparation & Establishment • Design Pointers
• Clipping Theory • Clipping Tools • Clipping Technique • Simple Shapes
• Complex Shapes & Figures • Problem Solving • Growing Topiary

• Simple Shapes

Introduction
The pruning of trees and shrubs to emphasise natural form is covered by the art of bonsai - or perhaps tree surgery at its best. Here we deal with topiary -training them into wonderful contrived, artificial and unnatural shapes.

It is best remembered that the art of topiary is an ongoing process. There are no perfect, instant results - all development takes time. It should also be borne in mind there are no completed end points - all topiary will continue to grow and develop.

Remember, whichever shapes are selected, even if the growth has not filled out to your chosen form, it is still worthwhile trimming back the tips each year to promote the bushy, close surface we desire.

Cones
These are one of the basic topiary shapes and certainly one of the most
important. They are a stylised version of many plants natural forms. If developing young plants for the purpose of cones, it is often worth
selecting a single leading growth and reducing or removing its competitors.
Whilst strictly speaking a single leader may not be altogether essential, the basic cone shape is often developed on into other forms and then the value of the sturdy, strong, central leader will be hugely appreciated.
A straight edge, long cane or pole is very handy when clipping cones. It can be laid on the clipped side to help define a true face or angle.
Although circular in plan cross-section, it is often better to cut a number of perfectly flat facet sides on the shape first - making it, in effect, a pyramid. These are then blended into one another to create a perfect rounded cross-section. It is best to start on the Œshoulders¹ of these shapes first - working up and down from that point to a predetermined straight edge. The shoulders are naturally where growth is thickest, so should be cut hard back first, whilst trimming lighter if necessary to maintain the line to the top and bottom of the shape.



Cones are inherently a good shape for the plant - wider at the bottom and tapering up to the top. This ensures good light reaches all surfaces. They can be maintained well indefinitely and often only suffer when clipped so tightly it stops growth and development. If allowed to grow slightly larger each year they will benefit. They may also, at some point, prove the launching point for some more ornamental development - perhaps cutting a spiral into them, or tiers, or growing on and up to a finial of some sort.

Balls
These are the most basic and easy shape to initially produce and are often seen cut from box. Untrimmed, untrained specimens are often simply a loose ball shape and easy trimming will tighten up the form.
It is possible to just approach the bush, trimming all over (standing back and looking often, of course) to achieve this shape. But once again here, it may be easier to first cut around a series of circular bands, then bind these perfect bands together to form the three-dimensional sphere.
Although initially easy to form, they do prove harder to maintain over time as the overhung growth at the bottom tends to grow very little and loses its leaves ultimately, whilst on top the plant cannot be prevented entirely from upward growth resulting in time in an elongated egg shape.

A more sustainable close alternative is the semi-circular shape, or more correctly half-sphere or hemisphere. This is more the ideal wide at base/narrow at top shape. Both spheres and hemispheres can be developed in time by choosing a strong well-placed central leader to grow on.

Cubes
Cubes are again a fairly standard and easy building block in the topiary world. Initially, lightly squaring off the top and sides of an untrimmed bush will, after a season or two, give a densely surfaced cube. Trimming the top back in particular encourages the sides to fill out well.
The top surface is best eyed in as level by getting a view directly across it - if possible skylining it against the true horizontals of a nearby building or possibly a landscape feature. The verticals can again be related visually to nearby true verticals if possible or a string and weight, a plumbline, can be used from time to time to check ones mental idea of vertical with reality.

Cubes are a very durable shape. They will last and can expand in size
easily. The main thing to avoid are the bases of the sides thinning by
becoming overhung. Keep these sides vertical and free from light and other competition and they should be fine. Ultimately the cube may become more rectangular as it grows more vigorously on the sunny (South in the Northern hemisphere) side. Again, being forewarned is to be forearmed and this potential problem can be avoided by trimming more lightly on the North side to compensate.

Cylinders
Cylinders are a shape that may prove as challenging as any of the other
geometric shapes. The trouble with them is that their perfection, or
otherwise, can so easily be assessed instantly by any viewer and their
faults, if any, are blatant and on display at first glance.
Cylinders however are not unusually difficult, but it is best to be aware of the potential pitfalls to be better able to avoid them. Like any upright and vertical sided shape, the lower areas - particularly on the North side - are thin and weak growing. Be aware of this when clipping and be ready to allow extra growth to remain at these points to compensate.

Remember, whatever the shape, it is always best to start clipping at the highest, thickest growing, most raised area. Cut hard down to a line here then match all other areas in with this. It is all too easy to round off the tops of the verticals too. If one is not careful a sausage-shape results as the shoulders are naturally the most vigorous area. Again, be aware of this and eye-in often, using a plumbline if necessary from time-to-time.
Cylinders are a relatively sustainable shape over time, particularly if
attention is paid to the verticality of the sides and ultimately to their circular rather than oval plan cross-section.

Spirals
These are the most complex and impressive of the simple shapes. They can sometimes be cut from existing cones or developed from much younger
specimens, but either way the basic framework of the chosen plant is
all-important. There must be a strong, dominant central leader from which all other branches must radiate.
Basic formation involves cutting a slot back through the foliage to the main trunk then extending this up as one walks around and around the piece.
This, in theory, should form a unified slot and raised spiral of growth
around the trunk. A string line may be wound around the plant initially to help visualise and, if necessary, adjust the line of cut. This may be left on as a guide, but like all string lines will probably just get in the way so your line, once decided upon, is probably easier cut freehand.

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It will be noticed that if there are any strong vertical growths, then as they are removed to form one part of the spiral, their upper parts will also come out removing higher parts of the topiary. This is why it is so important to have horizontal radiating growth coming from the central leader to produce spirals. They are most easily created from tall, thin, shapes whose lower areas are allowed to grow out horizontally later once the basic shape has been cut. Like most topiary, it will generally look much worse after you have had the initial go at shaping it than before you have touched it. Don¹t panic - this is quite natural and to be expected. Time is needed for holes to fill in, irregularities to smooth over and the surface to become denser. After a few cycles of growth and clipping the finished beauty will begin to emerge.
Spirals are a sustainable shape in that once formed, the lower tiers may be allowed to grow out forming a better basic, wider at the bottom, narrow at the top shape. They can also be trained on up as a spiral encouraging at all times, the outer branches to radiate from a single strong central leader.

It is over time, however, that problems may form as all growth naturally develops upwards. The top of one spiral tier may reach the bottom of the tier above it, and details may merge and becoming blurred. Avoid this by forming wide slots initially and emphasising this when clipping. Also be aware of the damage a missed shoot will do if allowed to grow into the tier above. In time it will take over and when eventually identified and cut out may remove large areas of the form.
If your chosen bush has multiple leaders, or otherwise does not lend itself to a true spiral shape, all is not lost. Here, a spiral can be incised into the surface layers of growth. This gives a slightly different visual effect
and, perhaps in the very long run, may prove more difficult to maintain as the bush begins to flop open under its own weight. It is, however, a useful alternative approach to forming a spiral.

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